Grand Canyon Journal

Day 9

We get to start today with a shower as the whole group is floating around the corner to Shinumo Falls.   Soap isn’t allowed in the side streams feeding the Colorado but I think I’d better take every opportunity for a clear water rinse.

 

Oh its cold!

Picture 479 95_shinumos_cold Picture 473

 

We pass an uneventful morning on the river.  Mostly it is peaceful and looks like this:

89_passengers_view_calm or this Picture 561

 

although sometimes it looks like this:

88_passengers_view_rapids

 

People are already talking about Lava Falls in anticipation of the biggest rapid of the whole trip.   I peek ahead in the map to see Lava’s at mile 179, class 10 of course, boasting a 37’ vertical drop across its length, and -- the topic of the stories -- it starts off with an unavoidable 4’ ledge.   That’s a big drop to take in a loaded raft!

 

While looking at the map, I notice a rapid called Upset between here and Lava.   Wonder how that got its name!

 

Next stop is Elves Chasm.   My guidebook has a stern warning about climbing above the waterfall in Elves Chasm – it’s the #1 site for search and rescue in the canyon.   I read the passage aloud to the group during lunch.   Everyone listens politely, but, by the time I scramble up to the chasm, I see I could have saved my breath.

Picture 533 Picture 534

 

I get myself into position to make the standard jump over the waterfall and get another chicken attack.  I have visions of my sandal slipping on the moss and turning my launch into a head-banging slide.   Coaxing shouts of “You’ll be fine!” don’t help at all.  I already know what that means!

Picture 540

 

The thing is, the down climb is worse than the jump and I eventually hurl myself into the pool below without incident.

 

Meanwhile, the climbers are puzzling over the route down.   Here’s Link jumping in from the high dive.

Picture 537

 

Will knows of some hidden inscriptions and we climb down and around to take a look.   Of course no one would dare add a name now – it would be defacing the rock with graffiti.   But the statue of limitations has run out on scrawls from 1859 and 1929.  It’s neat to see the record of far earlier travelers.

 

Our third side trip is Blacktail Canyon -- a narrow winding slot canyon.

Picture 566

 

Those who climb the spillover at the end are rewarded with a huge natural amphitheater.  I’m told a string quartet hauled their instruments in to make a fine recording with the natural acoustics.  Here’s an amphitheater, although not Blacktail.

Picture 550

 

Blacktail Canyon is so narrow and so obviously prone to flashflood that I find myself a little claustrophobic.  With clear skies in all directions, though, I’m free to take my time examining the polished gravel on the canyon floor and the sculpted walls.  The jumble of large rocks at the mouth of the canyon is a reminder that its not just water that scrubs the path of a flashflood – the rainfall gathers quickly enough to carry boulders, trees and anything else that’s loose down from the watershed to the river.

Picture 574

 

We camp at mile 122, a wide spot in the canyon.    As I lay in my tent waiting for the moon to set behind the canyon wall, I count my lucky stars, literally.   I’m pretty sure I’m alive only because the river let me live.  But it did let me live and for that I’m grateful.   Also happy to realize that the muscle soreness is easing.  I may be finally adapting to multiple workouts per day.   Happy thoughts indeed.

 

Onwards to Day 10

 

 

 

Copyright Ó 2004-2008 by Jackie Ann Patterson

www.jackieannpatterson.com

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