Grand Canyon Journal

Day 7 Rapids

Mona, Ardis and I stay with the boats while the gang scouts Horn Creek Rapid -- named for two large water-cushioned rocks pointing out at the top of a steep drop. There’s a rocky climb to the lookout and besides, I have to put on my wetsuit and helmet.  Helmets are not required for rafting the Grand Canyon but I saw one on sale at REI and snapped it up just in case. The rule I’ve adopted is that if we need to stop to scout a rapid, I wear the helmet, but if we can scout it on the fly I just stick with my sunhat.

 

Jack comes a-running for his boat.  This happens – the kayakers take a quick scout then blaze down to surf as many waves as possible before the rafters finish.    But Ardis says,  ”Oh-oh, I don’t like the look of that.”   Insightful, that Ardis.

 

Clint and Yozzy flipped.   I guess Clint took a hellacious line – if he was looking to find the limits of his 14’ craft, he did just fine.   Here’s the photo sequence from left to right: the beginning, the raft upside down, and Clint the next evening taking his penalty shot from a river shoe.

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Bill comes back from scouting downright ashen.   He’s a kayaker and has been driving the big raft for only two miles -- just long enough to know that it doesn’t handle so well.   He expressed some trepidation scouting the class 10 rapid and the group tried to figure a way for another captain to walk back up after the run and take Bill’s boat down in his stead.    No luck – the shoreline is impassable beneath the lookout point.   And now Clint, the most qualified oarsman, has just capsized.   Bill’s in the hot seat.   He takes Liz and Mona right over a horn-rock, I hear, but the 18’ raft pulls them through.

 

Sandy makes the run look easy.

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I wonder what it will take to right a fully-loaded 14’ raft.   Unbelievably, the raft is face up when we get there.   The combined of strength of three adrenalin-charged Wilfley men brought it over on the second heave-ho.  Thankfully no injuries but all their personal water bottles, Clint’s favorite sun hat, and 1½ cases of beer are forfeit to the river.

 

I spend the afternoon trying to imagine what it would be like to run the big rapids without the benefit of a boat.   I wish to practice in a safe environment so I won’t be completely incompetent if I get tossed in the drink by surprise.

 

The next thing you know we’re at Hermit and I’m about to get my wish.  This is the rapid Charlie deliberately swam on a previous trip.    I go up to scout.   The haystack waves aren’t the legendary 30’ but they’re big enough for me, thank you very much.  We’re at mid-to-low water so according to my map Hermit is only a class 8 instead of its high water rating of class 9.

 

Here’s Sandy again, making this run look easy, too.

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Its late afternoon and I am the only swimmer.   Charlie recommends wearing two life jackets, er, personal floatation devices or PFDs.   I keep forgetting to call them PFDs, preferring the connotations of “life preserver”.  The gun-shy manufactures are making it painfully clear that floatation is all that is promised, any preservation of life is apparently just a bonus. There are no rocks in this rapid, however, so floatation should be all I need.

 

Clint corsets me in a spare PFD from his boat.   When I complain that it’s too tight to breathe, he says, “Well you don’t want the river to tear it off, now do you?”

 

My eyes grow wide and Clint gives me some last minute coaching.  “You know when to breathe in the rapids?  Any time you can!   That means you have to breathe out whenever you’re underwater so you’ll be ready to take in a quick breath when you come up.   You’ll be fine!”

 

Demonstrating more guts than brains at this point I wade in without hesitation.   I backstroke out onto the tongue of the current, thinking how easy it is to get into the flow.    Well, of course it’s easy!   Every water drop from the snowcapped Rockies to the flash-flooding desert is pushing me ahead of it down this narrow gorge.  

 

I’m sitting back in rapid-swimmer position but my arms are cold so I hold them up out of the water.    Maybe that has them wondering on shore because Charlie puts his hand flat on the top of his head.  From a distance, a wave is indistinguishable from a panicked flail or drying ones arms for that matter.  Charlie’s deliberate motion is the universal boater’s signal to show all is well and I interpret it as a question.  I give the sign right back and that’s the last I see of the riverbank.

 

The first two haystacks go just fine.   Inhale in the trough; exhale as I punch through under the water.   That yellow dot’s me, taking a big deep breath.

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The third wave gives me a good spin and I neglect to exhale.   When I come up I can’t immediately inhale – gotta blow out first.  Already I’m at another wall of water.   An avalanche from the snow-capped Rockies roars in my sinuses and the desert flashfloods right down my throat.   Worse, while the river pulls me under and has its way with me, I have no air in my lungs.

 

I come up sputtering, flailing, and facing yet another big wave.  Frantically backstroking, I make a futile effort to put it off until I catch my breath.

 

When I come up again, I feel quite alone and so very puny.  A corner of my mind knows I must sit tight and conserve energy until I get to calmer waters, but the flailing part seems to have the upper hand.  Just then Jack and Jules circle me in their kayaks.  Angels from heaven!  “Help me!” I gasp.

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Jules has me grab the back of his boat and tows me to the far shore.  The kayak cuts through the remaining waves and I glide at ease behind.   He tells me it’s not a free ride – I have to kick.   At least I have practiced this part in the pool.   Once I’m standing safe on the rocks, I realize how close I was to the end of the rapids, how much easier it would have been if I’d sat still in there, and I want to try it again.   Get it right this time.   Julian tells me I did just fine.

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Jules leaves to spot the rafters as they come through.  Or maybe he’s going back to surf that big hole again.

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I watch the rafters from my vantage spot.  I think this is Charlie and Ardis.

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I didn’t bring my camera through the rapid, but Jeff did.  Here’s the rafters’ perspective of Hermit.  Click on that third shot.  I believe those far waves are where I fell behind in my breathing but I was too disoriented to tell you for sure.

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We camp at mile 96.  The day isn’t done until the boats are unloaded and dinner is served.  My team is cooking but we’re in luck as the menu calls for clam chowder.  Mona does the hard thing making Waldorf salad and the rest of us just open soup cans.

 

I pitch my tent two steps outside the kitchen.   I’m too tuckered to even get up and greet our guests when ring-tailed cats visit the camp.   I’ve been remiss in recording the wildlife we’ve seen.   I’ll try to give a rundown when we come to a break in the action.  Meanwhile, here are the cute Yoda-cats.

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Onwards to Day 8

 

 

 

Copyright Ó 2004-2008 by Jackie Ann Patterson

www.jackieannpatterson.com

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